Long-Term & Group Shelter
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A group shelter frame, near completion |
There's something magical about sitting together and sharing stories around a fire in primitive shelter on a cold winter day.
However, you need to be very mindful of safety and follow sound construction practices and wood selection to avoid creating something that collapses on you!
In the video you can see some techniques of shelter construction.
Proper wood selection:
All the structural elements (columns, ridgepoles/beams, and many of the long ribs that lean against the ridgepoles/beams are of black locust. This wood is exceptionally strong and rot resistant.
If at all possible, I make a point of seeking out areas with locust logs and using these for my structural supports on group shelters. As you might notice in the video, the locust looks weathered and rotten, but if you test it for hardness and strength you will be amazed.
In fact, this is a good way to find black locust: if you find a 3" - 6" log on the ground that looks weathered and rotten, but feels rock solid and easily supports your weight without cracking (when you elevate one end), you can be pretty sure it's locust.
If I cannot find a suitable area with enough black locust, my next go-to woods would be Virginia pine and oak that is rot-free. If kept mostly dry these should be strong for a long time, but you should still monitor for signs of rot.
I know that hickory, beech, and tulip poplar can rot rapidly if exposed to moisture. If you use such materials without any rot or fungus, and are able to keep them dry, I suspect they may retain strength for a long time, and I do have some experience to support this. But use care!
Y-stick safety
If you pause the video at 0:35, notice how the beam is NOT in contact with the bottom of the fork that is supporting it. The beam is supported by the sides of the forks of the Y-stick column. This is not ideal.
When you use a Y-stick fork, it is best if the fork is shaped like a U (not a narrow V), and that the beam is resting on the bottom of U, and not placing much outward stress against the prongs of the fork.
In this particular case, I expect we can get away with it. Because locust is so strong, and the beam is narrow and fairly close to the bottom of the V, I feel confident that it will hold. AND in this case there is a back-up safety feature: as you can see, the beam is wedged between twin trunks of a maple tree, which hold the beam in place if the Y-stick is removed.
However, be mindful that forks are potentially a weakness that can lead to catastrophic shelter failure if they break.
One alternative to the Y-fork is to just cut a shallow V into the top of a black locust column. This is extremely strong -- just be careful during the construction process, because beams can fall off until securely weighed down by a frame.
Fire & smoke safety
These shelters are highly combustible, especially when dry!
Fire-making in such a shelter should be done only under close supervision of an experienced adult. The shelter must be large enough, and have a functional smoke hatch, and the fire must be carefully kept small. In many shelters fires should be made only in wet weather, if at all.
The supervising adult must be able to keep the fire relatively smokeless, and guard occupants from the potentially serious dangers of smoke inhalation.
Waterproofing
If you look carefully in the video, notice the ribs that make-up the wall are placed together rather evenly. We plan to fill in the remaining gaps with branches that will hold leaves in place, and then add about 2 feet of leaves to the canopy and to the walls. A solid 2' layer should keep out wind and water, just as in a debris hut.
If you can find slabs of bark from a large dead tree, these can be good shingles too, of course. You can add them directly to the frame, or onto the leaves.
I've have used grass thatch before, just keep in mind that it is extremely flammable.
Work with what you have! Have fun, be smart.
However, you need to be very mindful of safety and follow sound construction practices and wood selection to avoid creating something that collapses on you!
In the video you can see some techniques of shelter construction.
Proper wood selection:
All the structural elements (columns, ridgepoles/beams, and many of the long ribs that lean against the ridgepoles/beams are of black locust. This wood is exceptionally strong and rot resistant.
If at all possible, I make a point of seeking out areas with locust logs and using these for my structural supports on group shelters. As you might notice in the video, the locust looks weathered and rotten, but if you test it for hardness and strength you will be amazed.
In fact, this is a good way to find black locust: if you find a 3" - 6" log on the ground that looks weathered and rotten, but feels rock solid and easily supports your weight without cracking (when you elevate one end), you can be pretty sure it's locust.
If I cannot find a suitable area with enough black locust, my next go-to woods would be Virginia pine and oak that is rot-free. If kept mostly dry these should be strong for a long time, but you should still monitor for signs of rot.
I know that hickory, beech, and tulip poplar can rot rapidly if exposed to moisture. If you use such materials without any rot or fungus, and are able to keep them dry, I suspect they may retain strength for a long time, and I do have some experience to support this. But use care!
Y-stick safety
If you pause the video at 0:35, notice how the beam is NOT in contact with the bottom of the fork that is supporting it. The beam is supported by the sides of the forks of the Y-stick column. This is not ideal.
When you use a Y-stick fork, it is best if the fork is shaped like a U (not a narrow V), and that the beam is resting on the bottom of U, and not placing much outward stress against the prongs of the fork.
In this particular case, I expect we can get away with it. Because locust is so strong, and the beam is narrow and fairly close to the bottom of the V, I feel confident that it will hold. AND in this case there is a back-up safety feature: as you can see, the beam is wedged between twin trunks of a maple tree, which hold the beam in place if the Y-stick is removed.
However, be mindful that forks are potentially a weakness that can lead to catastrophic shelter failure if they break.
One alternative to the Y-fork is to just cut a shallow V into the top of a black locust column. This is extremely strong -- just be careful during the construction process, because beams can fall off until securely weighed down by a frame.
Fire & smoke safety
These shelters are highly combustible, especially when dry!
Fire-making in such a shelter should be done only under close supervision of an experienced adult. The shelter must be large enough, and have a functional smoke hatch, and the fire must be carefully kept small. In many shelters fires should be made only in wet weather, if at all.
The supervising adult must be able to keep the fire relatively smokeless, and guard occupants from the potentially serious dangers of smoke inhalation.
Waterproofing
If you look carefully in the video, notice the ribs that make-up the wall are placed together rather evenly. We plan to fill in the remaining gaps with branches that will hold leaves in place, and then add about 2 feet of leaves to the canopy and to the walls. A solid 2' layer should keep out wind and water, just as in a debris hut.
If you can find slabs of bark from a large dead tree, these can be good shingles too, of course. You can add them directly to the frame, or onto the leaves.
I've have used grass thatch before, just keep in mind that it is extremely flammable.
Work with what you have! Have fun, be smart.
Visiting a Hogan/Mandan lodge by an experienced builder
Fort-building vs. shelters
The advice and cautions above pertain to building a full scale, fully-functional shelter that is waterproof.
By contrast, it is unlikely that a child, or small group of children would build something either very dangerous (or very effective for survival). Independent fort-building is a great thing for kids to do!
If your child has attended a program where he or she has helped make or use an actual group shelters and wants to attempt something similar, I would also encourage you to support this activity if possible. If you have safety concerns, I suggest talking them through with the child to make sure the risks are understood and addressed. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions or concerns about this...
By contrast, it is unlikely that a child, or small group of children would build something either very dangerous (or very effective for survival). Independent fort-building is a great thing for kids to do!
If your child has attended a program where he or she has helped make or use an actual group shelters and wants to attempt something similar, I would also encourage you to support this activity if possible. If you have safety concerns, I suggest talking them through with the child to make sure the risks are understood and addressed. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions or concerns about this...
